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Most people know the island of Oahu for the state capital, Honolulu, home to the famous Waikiki Beach district. This storied piece of real estate, a miles-long, white-sand strand lined with high-rise hotels, is hands-down the premier urban beach resort on the planet.
Waikiki draws tourists from all over the globe, seducing them with water sports (sailing, standup paddle-boarding, outrigger canoe rides, beginner surf lessons), hula shows, fine and casual dining, umbrella drinks and shop-till-you-drop temptations at every turn. And that's not to mention the endless entertainment that people-watching provides. So captivating (and surprisingly diverse) is Waikiki that many visitors, especially those on a tight schedule, see no reason to leave.
Beyond Waikiki, however, lies an entirely different place. Lush, crenelated mountains form a beckoning backdrop to congested Honolulu, and a drive around the island will fill a day with heart-stopping scenery, fascinating historic sites, quintessential surfer towns, shave-ice stands, shrimp and plate-lunch trucks — and, if you time it right, a chance to watch big-wave surfers tackling the giants at Banzai Pipeline and other legendary breaks on the North Shore.
The top excursion for cruise passengers, however, is much more somber in nature. The USS Arizona Memorial at Pearl Harbor straddles the hull of the first battleship sunk by Japanese war planes on Dec. 7, 1941, prompting the United States to enter World War II. Included on many tours organized for cruise passengers is the adjacent Battleship Missouri, or "Mighty Mo," where the surrender that ended the war on Sept. 2, 1945, was signed.
For families in search of a curated but more lighthearted (if pricey) experience, Oahu delivers in the form of Sea Life Park, a 22-acre, marine-themed attraction at Haunama Bay that offers, among other activities, a chef's luau, swimming with dolphins or swimming with four native species of sharks separated from humans by a wire-mesh fence. The Polynesian Cultural Center, a kind of educational theme park composed of "villages" depicting the cultures of seven Polynesian island groups, is another family favorite.
No matter what ship you’re on, you’ll call on Honolulu and perhaps spend a pre- or post-cruise night or two in Waikiki, one of the most vibrant urban beach resorts in the world. You’d be cheating yourself if you didn’t spend a few hours people-watching while walking down the strand, pausing here and there for a rest or a libation, gawking at the famous hotels and perhaps signing on for a beginner surfing lesson, a sailboat excursion or a ride in an outrigger canoe. At around sunset, many hotels stage outdoor music and dance shows, some free, some for a fee, most highly professional and well worth attending.
If the crowds outside your hotel are not to your liking, walk south (or take a bus or taxi) to Kapiolani Park, the "Central Park" of Honolulu, where you'll mingle with picnicking locals and perhaps catch a show at the Waikiki Shell amphitheater. Many festivals are staged here as well. Across from the park, San Souci Beach (also called Kaimana Beach), geographically an extension of Waikiki, is a low-key, reef-protected strand that attracts more locals than tourists. The Hau Tree Lanai restaurant at the New Otani Kaimana Beach Hotel is a delightful place to have lunch or enjoy a sunset cocktail. Just beyond the park is Diamond Head, Honolulu's most famous landmark. Go early in the morning (and bring a camera) to hike a stunning, 1.5-mile trail traversing the saucer-like crater and climbing 500 feet to a vista point affording panoramic views of Honolulu spread out like a toy town below you.
For another taste of nature, pay a visit to Foster Botanical Garden, dating to 1853 and featuring collections of palms, orchids and prehistoric plants, along with flowers and other merchandise to take home.
The most popular shore excursion out of Honolulu is also the most sobering: a visit to the USS Arizona Memorial at Pearl Harbor, site of the devastating 1941 Japanese attack that pushed the United States into World War II. Many tours combine the memorial with other sites of historical and scenic interest around Oahu. Others round out the day with beach visits and water-based activities.
If you visit Pearl Harbor on your own, block out about three extra hours for visiting the Battleship Missouri Memorial and the USS Bowfin Submarine Museum and Park, both offering deep insight into the challenges faced by the “greatest generation” in defense of the American way of life. You’ll see lots of beaches in your life, but there’s only one Pearl Harbor.
Waikiki is hardly all there is in the Oahu beach department, but you'll need a car to reach most of the others. Traveling around the island counterclockwise from Honolulu, you'll come to gems including Hanauma Bay, gorgeous but packed with bodies after 10 a.m.; Makapuu, a body-surfing mecca; Waimalano, four miles of sand and a park popular for locals' picnics; Kailua, a popular wind-surfing spot; and the North Shore's legendary Sunset, Waimea and Euhukai (Banzai Pipeline) beaches, home to some of the best surf breaks in the world. Back in Honolulu, locals in search of sun and sand head not to Waikiki, where parking is a definite problem, but to Ala Moana Beach Park, a protected half-mile strand safe for children.
Yes, it rains in Hawaii — and frequently, too. That said, don’t let a few showers spoil your day. Head instead to the Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum and spend a few engaging hours learning about the history and culture of Hawaii. Then, visit the Honolulu Museum of Art, Doris Duke’s Shangri-La Center for Islamic Arts and Cultures, the Hawaiian Mission Houses Historic Site, Iolani Palace or other indoor cultural venues. A trip to the Waikiki Aquarium will allow you to identify some of the fish you will see when swimming and snorkeling. Chances are, you’ll emerge to a rainbow.
Oahu offers tons of options for shopping. Throughout the island, you'll find duty-free shops, boutiques, markets and general stores with Hawaiian souvenirs and everyday merchandise. ABC Stores, with 40 outlets on Oahu alone, are great places to stock up on beach mats, sunscreen and souvenirs. Another ubiquitous retail name is Crazy Shirts, founded in 1964 and specializing in tropical and topical designs. Honolulu's biggest mall, Ala Ala Moana Center, with more than 200 stores, is less than 10 minutes from the Pier 2 Cruise Terminal.
If you have time before heading back to your ship, the lively streets of Chinatown are known to attract partiers with hopping bars, live music and vibrant atmosphere. In Waikiki, many hotels produce outdoor evening shows with musical entertainment, fire-knife dancers and skillful hula performances set against a background of swaying palms, whispering surf and brilliant sunsets.
For families in search of a curated but more lighthearted (if pricey) experience, Oahu delivers in the form of Sea Life Park, a 22-acre, marine-themed attraction at Haunama Bay that offers, among other activities, a chef's luau, swimming with dolphins or swimming with four native species of sharks separated from humans by a wire-mesh fence. The Polynesian Cultural Center, a kind of educational theme park composed of "villages" depicting the cultures of seven Polynesian island groups, is another family favorite.
Try authentic local dishes that draw on pork, steak, mahi-mahi, chicken teriyaki and rice as well as specialties such as loco moco and malasada, prepared by chefs with their own take. A regular on Honolulu Magazine's best restaurant list is Alan Wong's, which describes itself as "a culinary studio experimenting with new flavors and new ideas." (It's located on the third floor of a downtown office building, so you'll have to drive or take a taxi.) Another top choice for fine dining, this one in Waikiki, is Roy's Hawaii, renowned for innovative takes on Pacific Rim cuisine. For a more casual meal, try Tikis Grill & Bar, a large and busy beachside venue; and Hula Grill, where you can watch surfers doing their thing as you sip your morning coffee.
The view from Diamond Head is a postcard classic, and on the North Shore, you can photograph surfers in their native habitat. In Waikiki, focus your lens on outrigger canoes, surfers, garden delights, bikini babes, umbrella drinks, hula dancers and whatever else strikes your fancy.
Fun facts
Oahu has what formally is known as a "tropical savanna climate," with most rain and cooler temperatures occurring in the winter months. During the summer (May-October) the temperature typically averages from the mid-70s to low 90s. In the winter (November-April) the weather fluctuates between the mid-60s to mid-80s.
Dress: You’ll be fine with casual wear all over Hawaii. A few finer restaurants might require jackets for dinner. Men will love this: An aloha or “Hawaiian” shirt is the perfect outfit (casual buttoned down or collared shirt) and can be worn at almost any event and occasion.
Cruise ships dock at either Pier 11 at the Aloha Tower or at nearby Pier 2. Both are close to each other with the Aloha Tower located slightly closer to the downtown area.
The island’s public transportation, TheBus, offers tours of local points of interest. Trolleys are also widespread, and taxis can be found by hotels and in shopping districts. Renting a car, a moped or bike are also good options for independent travelers. Be forewarned that these days you have to pay to park in most parts of Honolulu.
The city's free wireless Internet access is called Hotzones in Honolulu. This initiative, provided by the Department of Information Technology and several private sector partners, is getting Honolulu on the top of “digital cities” lists.
Tipping: A 10% to 15% tip on the restaurant/taxi bill is customary. Sometimes a tip is automatically added to your bill; check your credit card slip before adding an additional tip.
Safety: Honolulu is considered to be a relatively safe place, but don’t forget that it’s a big city with all the same concerns as the rest of the United States. As always, don’t flash cash around and stay in well-lit areas at night.
Have you been to Oahu? Please share a story, tip or discovery. What did you do while you were there? What was the highlight for you?
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“Oahu is one-stop Hawaii — all the allure of the Islands in a chop-suey mix that has you kayaking around offshore islets by day and sitting in a jazz club 'round midnight.”
“DO come surf in summer, when the swell is mellow and long-breaking. Even I could do it, explaining why this is surfing's birthplace.”