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Describing the appeal of the world’s highest, driest, coldest, windiest, emptiest, most isolated continent is like trying to put a verbal finger on something beyond comprehension. It’s not just the elemental beauty that makes an impression, it’s the overwhelming vastness, the fragile purity, the sense of privilege that comes with beholding one of the last pristine places on the planet, a frozen Eden.
OK, are you ready to cross this off your bucket list? In the second part of this series I lay out the logistics: how to get there, getting situated in Ushuaia, Argentina, wi-fi down there, shore excursions to Tierra del Fuego, what to expect when navigating the Drake Passage and what to bring on your journey.
The cruise season is the Southern Hemisphere's summer, December through February. The weather in the peninsular “banana belt” where most cruise ships sail is not as cold as you might guess, so long as the wind is not blowing. Blue-sky “bikini weather” —temperatures in the 40s, even low 50s — happens, too.
In Ushuaia, Argentina, ships dock at a long pier on the edge of town. Larger ships on longer cruises often depart for Antarctica from Valparaiso, Chile, or Buenos Aires, Argentina.
Passengers are brought ashore in inflatable expedition boats that make either “wet” (waterproof boots needed) or “dry” landings.
Ushuaia – the capital of Tierra del Fuego, Argentina, and the southernmost city in the world – is highly walkable, and taxis are abundant.
The cruise lines are good about making sure visitors don't disrupt Antarctica's fragile ecosystem (if only Washington's politicians would be so conscientious!). We like Hurtigruten's motto: "Take nothing but photos and leave nothing but footprints."
Language: English on your cruise ship, Spanish in Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego
Currency: In Ushuaia, credit cards or the Argentine peso. Change money at kiosks on the pier, at banks or at ATM machines in town.
Have you been to Antarctica? Please share your story, tip or discovery. What was the highlight for you? How did you fair across the Drake? Photos, too, are welcome, I'd love to see them!
