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Sorrento has long held a special place in the heart of Italians. Its rugged beauty has attracted poets, philosophers, playwrights and authors for centuries. Roman mythology places Sorrento as the spot where sailors were lured to their death by the songs of the sirens — mermaids who used their beautiful voices to lead men to their watery graves. It's said that the mythical hero Ulysses stuffed his crew's ears with wax to deafen them and strapped himself to the ship's hull in order to resist their allure.
Today, the town is still every bit as alluring. Sorrento is on the beautiful Amalfi Coast, a strip of land in Western Italy that overlooks the Mediterranean Sea. The small island of Capri is just three miles off shore, and one of Italy's most beautiful (but dangerous) roads winds along from Sorrento, through Amalfi and into Salerno. Sorrento is equidistant from Naples and Salerno, exactly 43 miles away from each. Vic Damone's long-ago hit, "Come Back to Sorrento," may become your theme song once you visit this little slice of paradise.
The tourist office (Via Luigi de Maio 35, 081-807-4033) is right near port, so it's a great place to start planning your itinerary during your stay in Sorrento. Sorrento is not known as a place steeped in culture and history, especially compared to other places in Italy. As a result, there aren't too many museums and churches of note. However, there are a couple of spots that will hold your interest.
Piazza Tasso is the central meeting place in Sorrento. This is the best spot for people watching, and there are lots of shopping and dining options in the immediate vicinity. Just north of Piazza Tasso is the Museo Correale di Terranova (Via Correale, 081-878-1846). The former palace now displays antiques, sculptures, and artwork. The well-kept gardens make for a lovely stroll, especially in the summer months. A craft that has turned into a tradition in Sorrento is intarsia, or wood inlaying. A museum has been erected, the Museo della Tarsialignea (Via San Nicola 1, 081-877-1942), to ensure the presentation of this dwindling art.
The Chisea di San Francesco (Via San Francesco, 081-878-1269) still stands from the 1300s. The garden is particularly beautiful here, and during the summertime there are live jazz and classical music performances nightly. Try to make your way to the Sorrento Peninsula to catch a fabulous sunset.
A trip along the Amalfi Coast or a short ferry ride to Capri are other options for the traveler with time to kill in Sorrento. In Capri, be sure to visit the Grotta Azzurra, or Blue Grotto. The refraction of the sun's rays through the water bathes the grotto in brilliant blue light.
Sorrento is fairly famous as a resort town, so it's odd to discover that the beaches here are not all that spectacular. The best beach is found by traveling up Via del Capo until you reach Punta del Capo. Nice sand and a calm sea await you.
Piazza Tasso is full of small shops selling handmade crafts. One store that stands out above the rest is Gargiulo & Jannuzzi (Viale E. Caruso, 081-878-1041), a homemade furniture store. Since 1863, this store has been demonstrating their technique of combining wood pieces in interesting and innovative ways. Finished products can be shipped anywhere in the world. Ciro Bimonte (Via Giuliani 61, 081-807-1880) has good prices on jewelry. And for general souvenir shopping, you will find anything you need at Cuomo's Lucky Store (Piazza Antiche Mura 2-7, 081-878-5649).
Sorrento's nightlife is surprisingly vibrant for a sleepy resort town. There are plenty of bars and nightclubs that will be happy to show you a good time. The Charley Chaplin Pub (Corso Italia +18 081-807-2551) usually does good business, as does The English Inn. A quieter crowd gathers at Taverna dell'800 (Via dell'Accademia +29 081-878-5970) for live piano and guitar performances in a low-key setting.
Sorrento, and Italy in general, is famous for good food, so it's hard to go wrong when visiting. A few local dishes worth trying are the gnocchi alla sorrentina (baked potato pasta with tomato sauce and mozzarella), the pastiera (a local cake), olive oil, artichoke or aubergines parmigiana (made with tomatoes and cheese) and, of course, gelato for dessert.
Some of the better restaurants in Sorrento are found in the nicer area hotels. The Hotel Imperial Tramontano serves fresh Mediterranean style cuisine. The Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria focuses on food unique to Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast, using herbs and spices found only here. Antico Frantoio (Via Casarlano, 081-807-2959) offers a diverse menu of Italian favorites. La Favorita-O'Parrucchiano is excellent, especially if you like veal. Trattoria da Emilia (Via Marina Grande +62 081-807-2720) hosted Sophia Loren when she came to Sorrento to work on a film. If it's good enough for Sophia, it's good enough for you! Of course, pizza is another main staple in Sorrento, and any restaurant in town is fully equipped to make you one upon request.
Sorrento weather is excellent on the whole as the general climate is mild. Summer is widely considered to be the best time to visit Sorrento, and it's also the town's peak season for tourists. Spring (late April, May and early June) and fall (September and October) are both great seasons to visit Sorrento as the weather is pleasant and there aren't as many tourists. Winter is the least appealing time to visit due to rainfall.
Cruise ships dock at the Port of Sorrento in Sorrento. There is easy access to the rest of town, as well as access to ships leaving for Capri.
There are trains that leave twice an hour and travel between Sorrento, Pompeii, Herculaneum and Naples. Ferries and hydrofoils run between Sorrento, Amalfi, Capri and Naples. Buses travel to Amalfi on an hourly basis.
Documents: U.S. and Canadian citizens will need a valid passport.
Language: Italian
Currency: The Euro
Tipping: As in most of Europe, tipping isn’t expected in Italy. A service charge is sometimes added to the bill. Some may also add an extra charge for the dinnerware and extras (tablecloth, silverware, plates, bread, etc.); this is normal.
Safety: Italy is generally a safe nation, with a low rate of violent crime. Women travelers can generally take in the sights of Sorrento without too much worry, but should expect the occasional advance from friendly Italian men. Of course, it is advisable to be cautious after dark, especially on less-traveled streets.
How about you? Have you been to Sorrento? What was the highlight? What would you recommend to a day visitor? Share a photo or tip!
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